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100 x 150mm Single Sided Phenolic PCB

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$4.00
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$3.75 (You save $0.25)
SKU:
100PP150
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Product Description

Kinsten 100 x 150mm Single Sided Phenolic PCB

 100 x 150mm Phenolic PCB, 1oz copper, positive presensitized, 1.6mm thick

 

Protoytpe Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs) with these Kinsten Positve Resist PCBs

Kinsten manufacture the positive resist coated printed circuit board (PCB) for many prototyping, educational and low volume applications. Even some high volume applications have used Kinsten PCB to keep the full process secure and in-house.

 Kinsten PCB prototyping is renowned for high quality printed circuit boards and ease of use. The photo-resist is machine applied producing an even coating to enable consistent results.

 Many schools, universities, electronic developers and hobbyists use Kinsten, to get repeatable, excellent results.

 Kinsten photo-resist is known for its wide tolerance of processes users like to employ. The very best results are obtained when using Kinsten UV exposure boxes, etch tanks and chemicals with Kinsten PCB.

 


Paper Phenolic PCBs

Phenolic substrate PCB is particularly suitable for less demanding applications. Kinsten only supply it with 1oz copper cladding on one side. The phenolic substrate is coloured brown, and is commonly seen in older electrical equipment. It is easier to cut and drill compared to fibre-glass PCB

However, it is not as robust, and is not suitable for use in situations where vibration or flexing is present. Care in soldering is recommended, as excessive soldering temperature or times can lead to charring more readily than fibre-glass substrate.

The positive resist has good exposure latitude and can produce very detailed track layouts when a suitable artwork and processing is used.

 

These Kinsten PCBs are one of the easiest and most economical ways to produce a PCB circuit at home.

 

 

 Product Details

 

- Positive acting Presensitized PCB (Kinsten brand)

- High Sensitive photo resist coated

- Short exposing time: 60-90 seconds

- Color varied after exposure

- Store in cool dry area

- Single Sided

- Phenolic

-100 x150 x 1.6 mm


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Product Reviews

  1. great results every time 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 20th Jan 2017

    I have been using this and other Kingten products for years now and have had a 99.9% success rate. I cannot recommend this range of PCB materials highly enough. Over the last 10 years I have made 1000s of PCBs and will continue to use this product.


  2. Kalex and there products. 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 25th Nov 2013

    I have been using Kinsten PCB boards for over 10 years now, and Kalex has been my preferred supplier. They are always delivered the next day without any problems.

    Most of the circuits I build are used in the aviation industry and for companies requiring prototype circuitry for new developments. Hence the boards need to be delivered on time fast and reliable, which has always been the case with Kalex and there products.

    I overlap 2 printed sheets of clear transparency to enrich the circuit printout from a laser printer then laminate them together.
    An older style computer scanner is used as the light box with the internals removed and replaced with 4 small florescent tubes. This has been ideal because the transparencies are held flat on the Kinsten board when the lid is closed.

    After a few minuets of light exposure the board is them placed in a container of water containing a table spoon of caustic soda and gently sloshed around. When the blue film around the circuit tracks are removed the board is then rinsed under cold water.

    Next, the board is put in the etching tank with heater and bubbler using Kalex supplied Ammonium Persulphate. After a short time when the exposed copper has etched away, the board is removed and rinsed once more under cold water.
    Then it is drill time with all the holes marked from the etching process being exposed, where there is normally 200 or more holes to be drilled in my circuits.
    The board is then wiped over with alcohol showing perfectly clean copper tracks.

    Some tricks of the trade...
    I prefer to draw the circuit layout in windows paint, because this allows me to fill in much of the circuit board with a 3 pixel gap between all tracks. This means very little copper needs to be removed during etching and the solution lasts much much longer.

    Always double up on the transparency layers used in a light box or from other light sources, as this stops any UV bleeding through especially if you forget to turn off the light box in time, and this covers over any imperfections from the original printout.

    After all holes are drilled and you are happy with the finished product, give the top layer of the board a few coats of spray paint in a color you like and let dry over night. For me this is the most exciting time of all, because it looks unique and attractive with a special color that says something about the effort we went to in designing the perfect circuit.


  3. Used in Aviation and high end products 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 25th Nov 2013

    I have been using Kinsten PCB boards for 10 years now, and Kalex has been my preferred supplier. They are always delivered the next day without any problems.

    Most of the circuits I build are used in the aviation industry and for companies requiring prototype circuitry for new developments. Hence the boards need to be delivered on time fast and reliable, which has always been the case with Kalex and there products.

    I overlap 2 printed sheets of clear transparency to enrich the circuit printout from a laser printer then laminate them together.
    A computer scanner is used as the light box with the internals removed and replaced with 4 small florescent tubes. This has been ideal because the transparency is held flat on the Kinsten board when the lid is closed.

    After a few minuets the board is placed in a container of water containing a table spoon of caustic soda and gently sloshed around. When the blue film around the circuit tracks are removed the board is then rinsed under cold water.

    Next the board is put in the etching tank with heater and bubbler using Kalex supplied Ammonium Persulphate. After a short time when the exposed copper has etched away, the board is removed and rinsed once more under cold water.
    Then it is drill time with all the holes marked from the etching process exposed.
    Normally I have 200 or more holes to be drilled which can take a while.
    The board is then wiped over with alcohol exposing perfectly clean copper tracks.

    Some tricks of the trade...
    I prefer to draw the circuit layout in windows paint, because this allows me to fill in much of the circuit board with a 3 pixel gap between all tracks. This means very little copper needs to be removed during etching process and the solution lasts much much longer.

    Always double up on the transparency layers used in a light box or other exposed light methods, as this stops any UV bleeding through if you forget to turn off the light box in time and covers over any imperfections from the original printout.

    After all holes are drilled and you are happy with the finished product, give the top layer of the board a few coats of spray paint in a color you like and let dry over night. For me this is the most important time of all, because it looks unique and attractive with a color that says something about the effort we went to in designing the perfect circuit.


  4. Phenolic Kinsten PCB is very easy to drill by hand. 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 31st Jul 2013

    Like many of my older peers, I used to use a dalo pen and draw my circuits by hand onto the fibreglass laminate. Whilst this was a very successful method for simple circuits there was no way you could do it for ic's or components that had a small footprint - an LED for instance.

    Kinsten is very reasonably priced and it is not just a photosensitive board, but an entire way of making your own designs with relative ease. If you can use a printer you can make professional pcbs every time - providing you read the instructions sheet that is enclosed in the foil packaging.

    No special tools or equiptment are required either, just a printer, some overhead transparency film (or polyester artwork base which gives better definition), a desktop lamp or other type of flouro light and a couple of chemicals that can be purchased from Kalex.

    The developer is a bleach like substance that dissolves in water. After your circuit has been exposed to light for 5 minutes or so, - as per instructions, you pop the board into a (plastic) tray and tip the diluted juice onto it, wiggle the tray, and hey-presto, a nice neat circuit appears before your eyes. Speaking of eyes, try not to get any of the juice in them because it stings and will require much flushing with fresh water to get it out. This applies to the etchant also (it is acidic ++), so be careful and wear rubber gloves and a pair of safety specs until you get used to handling the chemicals.

    There are many kinds of etchants available but the most convenient is the white powder supplied by Kalex, it is very simple to prepare and is as safe as houses - so long as you dont leave it on your skin or splash it into your eyes. My advice would be to clean up the work space before etching and have plenty of running water handy incase you have a spill - which will happen from time to time. The laundy is my favourite area for this but remember that the etchant will etch your nice shiny stainless steel wash trough if it is spilled. So use a plastic liner inside the trough to catch any spills.

    Finally and most importantly: dispose of the spent etchant (you will get a few boards from it before it expires) by placing the contanier in a safely isolated warm place away from kids and animals and allowing it to evaporate. Collect the crystals and double bag them and toss them into the garbo. Dont be tempted to flush it down the dunny.

    I hope you feel confident enough to try the Kinsten because I haven't looked back to the Dalo pen since I started printing my circuit boards.